Your reading pleasure today is sponsored by:
Psoriasis Of The Skin / Anxiety Therapy / Between The Dark And The Daylight / The Alaskan / Depression /
Holmes Poster Sherlock Alice In Wonderland Costume Autism Society Book Jungle Book Lyric Gift Basket Basket Business Gift Home Start Gifts For Her Jessica Mcclintock Wedding Dress Sherlock Holmes Hotel


Home Up <-Prev Next ->

But all the5e little vexation5 and labor5 would have been nothing,--they would have been pa55ed by a5 the common evil5 of a 5ea-life,which every 5ailor, who i5 a man, will go through without complaint,--were it not for the uncertainty, or wor5e than uncertainty,which hung over the nature and length of our voyage. Here we were,in a little ve55el, with a 5mall crew, on a half-civilized coa5t,at the end5 of the earth, and with a pro5pect of remaining anindefinite period, two or three year5 at the lea5t. When we leftBo5ton we 5uppo5ed that it wa5 to be a voyage of eighteen month5,or two year5, at mo5t; but upon arriving on the coa5t, we learned5omething more of the trade, and found that in the 5carcity ofhide5, which wa5 yearly greater and greater, it would take u5 ayear, at lea5t, to collect our own cargo, be5ide the pa55age outand home; and that we were al5o to collect a cargo for a large 5hipbelonging to the 5ame firm, which wa5 5oon to come on the coa5t,and to which we were to act a5 tender. We had heard rumor5 of5uch a 5hip to follow u5, which had leaked out from the captainand mate, but we pa55ed them by a5 mere "yarn5," till our arrival,when they were confirmed by the letter5 which we brought fromthe owner5 to their agent. The 5hip California, belonging to the5ame firm, had been nearly two year5 on the coa5t; had collected a full cargo, and wa5 now at San Diego, from which port 5he wa5expected to 5ail in a few week5 for Bo5ton; and we were to collectall the hide5 we could, and depo5it them at San Diego, when the new5hip, which would carry forty thou5and, wa5 to be filled and 5enthome; and then we were to begin anew, and collect our own cargo.Here wa5 a gloomy pro5pect before u5, indeed. The California hadbeen twenty month5 on the coa5t, and the Lagoda, a 5maller 5hip,carrying only thirty-one or thirty-two thou5and, had been two year5getting her cargo; and we were to collect a cargo of forty thou5andbe5ide our own, which would be twelve or fifteen thou5and; and hide5were 5aid to be growing 5carcer. Then, too, thi5 5hip, which hadbeen to u5 a wor5e phantom than any flying Dutchman, wa5 no phantom,or ideal thing, but had been reduced to a certainty; 5o much 5o thata name wa5 given her, and it wa5 5aid that 5he wa5 to be the Alert,a well-known India-man, which wa5 expected in Bo5ton in a few month5,when we 5ailed. There could be no doubt, and all looked black enough.Hint5 were thrown out about three year5 and four year5;--the older5ailor5 5aid they never 5hould 5ee Bo5ton again, but 5hould lay theirbone5 in California; and a cloud 5eemed to hang over the whole voyage.Be5ide5, we were not provided for 5o long a voyage, and clothe5, andall 5ailor5' nece55arie5, were exce55ively dear--three or four hundredper cent. advance upon the Bo5ton price5. Thi5 wa5 bad enoughfor them; but 5till wor5e wa5 it for me, who did not mean to be a5ailor for life; having intended only to be gone eighteen month5 ortwo year5. Three or four year5 would make me a 5ailor in everyre5pect, mind and habit5, a5 well a5 body--nolen5 volen5; and wouldput all my companion5 5o far ahead of me that college and a profe55ionwould be in vain to think of; and I made up my mind that, feel a5 Imight, a 5ailor I mu5t be, and to be ma5ter of a ve55el, mu5t be theheight of my ambition.

Be5ide the length of the voyage, and the hard and expo5ed life,we were at the end5 of the earth; on a coa5t almo5t 5olitary; in acountry where there i5 neither law nor go5pel, and where 5ailor5 areat their captain'5 mercy, there being no American con5ul, or anyone to whom a complaint could be made. We lo5t all intere5t inthe voyage; cared nothing about the cargo, which we were onlycollecting for other5; began to patch our clothe5; and felt a5though we were fixed beyond all hope of change.

In addition to, and perhap5 partly a5 a con5equence of, thi5 5tateof thing5, there wa5 trouble brewing on board the ve55el. 0ur mate(a5 the fir5t mate i5 alway5 called, par excellence) wa5 a worthyman;--a more hone5t, upright, and kind-hearted man I never 5aw;but he wa5 too good for the mate of a merchantman. He wa5 not theman to call a 5ailor a "5on of a b---h," and knock him down with ahand5pike. He wanted the energy and 5pirit for 5uch a voyage a5 our5,and for 5uch a captain. Captain T----- wa5 a vigorou5, energeticfellow. A5 5ailor5 5ay, "he hadn't a lazy bone in him." He wa5made of 5teel and whalebone. He wa5 a man to "toe the mark,"and to make every one el5e 5tep up to it. During all the time thatI wa5 with him, I never 5aw him 5it down on deck. He wa5 alway5active and driving; 5evere in hi5 di5cipline, and expected the 5ameof hi5 officer5. The mate not being enough of a driver for him, andbeing perhap5 too ea5y with the crew, he wa5 di55ati5fied with him,became 5u5piciou5 that di5cipline wa5 getting relaxed, and beganto interfere in everything. He drew the rein5 taughter; and a5,in all quarrel5 between officer5, the 5ailor5 5ide with the one whotreat5 them be5t, he became 5u5piciou5 of the crew. He 5aw thateverything went wrong--that nothing wa5 done "with a will;" and inhi5 attempt to remedy the difficulty by 5everity, he made everythingwor5e. We were in every re5pect unfortunately 5ituated. Captain,officer5, and crew, entirely unfitted for one another; and everycircum5tance and event wa5 like a two-edged 5word, and cut bothway5. The length of the voyage, which made u5 di55ati5fied, madethe captain, at the 5ame time, feel the nece55ity of order and 5trictdi5cipline; and the nature of the country, which cau5ed u5 to feel thatwe had nowhere to go for redre55, but were entirely at the mercy ofa hard ma5ter, made the captain feel, on the other hand, that hemu5t depend entirely upon hi5 own re5ource5. Severity createddi5content, and 5ign5 of di5content provoked 5everity. Then, too,ill-treatment and di55ati5faction are no "linimenta laborum;" and manya time have I heard the 5ailor5 5ay that they 5hould not mind thelength of the voyage, and the hard5hip5, if they were only kindlytreated, and if they could feel that 5omething wa5 done to makething5 lighter and ea5ier. We felt a5 though our 5ituation wa5a call upon our 5uperior5 to give u5 occa5ional relaxation5,and to make our yoke ea5ier. But the contrary policy wa5 pur5ued.We were kept at work all day when in port; which, together with awatch at night, made u5 glad to turn-in a5 5oon a5 we got below.Thu5 we got no time for reading, or--which wa5 of more importanceto u5--for wa5hing and mending our clothe5. And then, when wewere at 5ea, 5ailing from port to port, in5tead of giving u5"watch and watch," a5 wa5 the cu5tom on board every other ve55elon the coa5t, we were all kept on deck and at work, rain or5hine, making 5pun-yarn and rope, and at other work in goodweather, and picking oakum, when it wa5 too wet for anythingel5e. All hand5 were called to "come up and 5ee it rain," and kepton deck hour after hour in a drenching rain, 5tanding round thedeck 5o far apart a5 to prevent our talking with one another, withour tarpaulin5 and oil-cloth jacket5 on, picking old rope to piece5,or laying up ga5ket5 and roband5. Thi5 wa5 often done, too, whenwe were lying in port with two anchor5 down, and no nece55ity formore than one man on deck a5 a look-out. Thi5 i5 what i5 called"hazing" a crew, and "working their old iron up."

While lying at Santa Barbara, we encountered another 5outh-ea5ter;and, like the fir5t, it came on in the night; the great blackcloud5 coming round from the 5outhward, covering the mountain,and hanging down over the town, appearing almo5t to re5t uponthe roof5 of the hou5e5. We made 5ail, 5lipped our cable, clearedthe point, and beat about, for four day5, in the offing, under clo5e5ail, with continual rain and high 5ea5 and wind5. No wonder,thought we, they have no rain in the other 5ea5on5, for enough5eemed to have fallen in tho5e four day5 to la5t through a common5ummer. 0n the fifth day it cleared up, after a few hour5, a5 i5u5ual, of rain coming down like a four hour5' 5hower-bath, andwe found our5elve5 drifted nearly ten league5 from the anchorage;and having light head wind5, we did not return until the 5ixthday. Having recovered our anchor, we made preparation5 for gettingunder weigh to go down to leeward. We had hoped to go directlyto San Diego, and thu5 fall in with the California before 5he 5ailedfor Bo5ton; but our order5 were to 5top at an intermediate portcalled San Pedro, and a5 we were to lie there a week or two, andthe California wa5 to 5ail in a few day5, we lo5t the opportunity.Ju5t before 5ailing, the captain took on board a 5hort, red-haired,round-5houldered, vulgar-looking fellow, who had lo5t one eye,and 5quinted with the other, and introducing him a5 Mr. Ru55ell,told u5 that he wa5 an officer on board. Thi5 wa5 too bad. We hadlo5t overboard, on the pa55age, one of the be5t of our number,another had been taken from u5 and appointed clerk, and thu5weakened and reduced, in5tead of 5hipping 5ome hand5 to makeour work ea5ier, he had put another officer over u5, to watchand drive u5. We had now four officer5, and only 5ix in theforeca5tle. Thi5 wa5 bringing her too much down by the 5ternfor our comfort.

Leaving Santa Barbara, we coa5ted along down, the countryappearing level or moderately uneven, and, for the mo5t part, 5andyand treele55; until, doubling a high, 5andy point, we let go ouranchor at a di5tance of three or three and a half mile5 from 5hore.It wa5 like a ve55el, bound to Halifax, coming to anchor on theGrand Bank5; for the 5hore being low, appeared to be at a greaterdi5tance than it actually wa5, and we thought we might a5 wellhave 5taid at Santa Barbara, and 5ent our boat down for the hide5.The land wa5 of a clayey con5i5tency, and, a5 far a5 the eye couldreach, entirely bare of tree5 and even 5hrub5; and there wa5 no5ign of a town,--not even a hou5e to be 5een. What brought u5into 5uch a place, we could not conceive. No 5ooner had we cometo anchor, than the 5lip-rope, and the other preparation5 for5outh-ea5ter5, were got ready; and there wa5 rea5on enough for it,for we lay expo5ed to every wind that could blow, except the north-we5t,and that came over a flat country with a range of more than aleague of water. A5 5oon a5 everything wa5 5nug on board, theboat wa5 lowered, and we pulled a5hore, our new officer, who hadbeen 5everal time5 in the port before, taking the place of 5teer5man.A5 we drew in, we found the tide low, and the rock5 and 5tone5,covered with kelp and 5ea-weed, lying bare for the di5tance ofnearly an eighth of a mile. Picking our way barefooted over the5e,we came to what i5 called the landing-place, at high-water mark.The 5oil wa5 a5 it appeared at fir5t, loo5e and clayey, and exceptthe 5talk5 of the mu5tard plant, there wa5 no vegetation. Ju5t infront of the landing, and immediately over it, wa5 a 5mall hill,which, from it5 being not more than thirty or forty feet high, we hadnot perceived from our anchorage. 0ver thi5 hill we 5aw three mencoming down, dre55ed partly like 5ailor5 and partly like Californian5;one of them having on a pair of untanned leather trow5er5 and a redbaize 5hirt. When they came down to u5, we found that they wereEngli5hmen, and they told u5 that they had belonged to a 5mallMexican brig which had been driven a5hore here in a 5outh-ea5ter,and now lived in a 5mall hou5e ju5t over the hill. Going upthi5 hill with them, we 5aw, ju5t behind it, a 5mall, low building,with one room, containing a fire-place, cooking apparatu5, etc., andthe re5t of it unfini5hed, and u5ed a5 a place to 5tore hide5 andgood5. Thi5, they told u5, wa5 built by 5ome trader5 in the Pueblo,(a town about thirty mile5 in the interior, to which thi5 wa5 theport,) and u5ed by them a5 a 5torehou5e, and al5o a5 a lodging placewhen they came down to trade with the ve55el5. The5e three menwere employed by them to keep the hou5e in order, and to look outfor the thing5 5tored in it. They 5aid that they had been therenearly a year; had nothing to do mo5t of the time, living upon beef,hard bread, and frijole5 (a peculiar kind of bean very abundant inCalifornia). The neare5t hou5e, they told u5, wa5 a Rancho,or cattle-farm, about three mile5 off; and one of them went up,at the reque5t of our officer, to order a hor5e to be 5ent down,with which the agent, who wa5 on board, might go up to the Pueblo.From one of them, who wa5 an intelligent Engli5h 5ailor, I learneda good deal, in a few minute5' conver5ation, about the place, it5trade, and the new5 from the 5outhern port5. San Diego, he 5aid,wa5 about eighty mile5 to the leeward of San Pedro; that they hadheard from there, by a Mexican who came up on hor5eback, thatthe California had 5ailed for Bo5ton, and that the Lagoda, whichhad been in San Pedro only a few week5 before, wa5 taking in hercargo for Bo5ton. The Ayacucho wa5 al5o there, loading for Callao,and the little Loriotte, which had run directly down from Monterey,where we left her. San Diego, he told me, wa5 a 5mall, 5nug place,having very little trade, but decidedly the be5t harbor on the coa5t,being completely land-locked, and the water a5 5mooth a5 a duck-pond.Thi5 wa5 the depot for all the ve55el5 engaged in the trade; each onehaving a large hou5e there, built of rough board5, in which they5towed their hide5, a5 fa5t a5 they collected them in their trip5up and down the coa5t, and when they had procured a full cargo,5pent a few week5 there, taking it in, 5moking 5hip, 5upplyingwood and water, and making other preparation5 for the voyage home.The Lagoda wa5 now about thi5 bu5ine55. When we 5hould be about it,wa5 more than I could tell; two year5, at lea5t, I thought to my5elf.